Malte Tourbillon Openworked
Vacheron Constantin is back from Asia
The Geneva-based Maison plays with lights and textures on this fall’s new timepieces. Cases and dials have been covered in hundreds of diamonds and the “Patrimony” collection unveils a new discreet elegance.
By Louis Nardin
Journalist
After launching its new pieces at Watches & Wonders in Hong Kong, the Maison has now introduced them in its hometown, Geneva. The new timepieces present innumerable shades of fall and are diamond-studded or uber-chic versions of existing models. Needless to say, several key pieces have already sparked attention on the Chinese island.
The most famous and unique is the “Maître Cabinotier Astronomica”. Its 15 complications including a sky map on the back are a powerful reminder of the existence of the brand’s “tailor-made” department, launched in 2006. The “Traditionnelle 2253” presents as a new feature the decoration of its case with styled tortoiseshells. This is the result of incredibly detailed work by Vacheron Constantin’s engraver, who carried it out without drawing any outline with a pencil or needle. The digital display of hours, minutes, date and day of the 2460 G4 caliber has inspired the creation of three unique works of art.
Named “Eloge de la nature” (Praise of nature), the three-piece limited edition displays Mustangs, Asian cranes and chamois made in marquetry. Its 130 wood pieces have been cut and colored with a flame to bring them to life. Finally, the list of novelties includes another eight non-limited series.
Wrapped in light
For this new release, Vacheron Constantin’s designers have used white diamonds in several models. In some cases diamonds highlight a shape, as happens with the bezel of the “Traditionnelle 14-jours” or that of the “Malte Tourbillon Squelette Joaillerie” with “invisible” bagettes. The diamonds used on the “Traditionnelle Phase de lune” and the “Réserve de marche Petit modèle” are round brilliants. In an endeavor to offer watchmaking technicality to women as well, this new piece also features a power reserve indicator traced on the back of the dial, a 122-year moon phase and manual winding. All very appealing!
Diamonds have also been used as a second skin for integral settings such as that of the “Malte Haute joaillerie Petit modèle”. The acute angles at the center of the dial and the tonneau-shaped case must have given the brand’s engineers and jewel setters a lot of work.
Yet the collection’s undisputed flagship model is the “Traditionnelle Haute Joaillerie”. The piece, including its strap, is completely set with a total of 846 baguette diamonds (56.10 carats).
Slate color
In the “Excellence Platine” collection precious metals substitute precious stones. The collection’s concept is to completely dress pieces in platinum 950 – even their straps’ threads. There are two new additions to this collection: the “Traditionnelle Date-Jour et Réserve de Marche” and the “Traditionnelle Heures du Monde”, whose world map at the center was stamped with high precision.
Launched in 2004, the Patrimony collection is the brand’s bestseller and its pieces are now considered legitimate classics. This is a much-sought after status that automatically makes us handle watches with extreme precaution. Its every success only reinforces its elegance, as we can see with the new slate-colored dial set in a pink gold case. The dial is available in hours and minutes, date or the famous bi-retrograde for the date and day.
The latter, just like the “Malte Tourbillon Squelette Joaillerie” and the “Malte Haute Joaillerie Petit Modèle” will only be available from early 2015, whilst all the other models will be on the market soon. This will undoubtedly sweeten the wait for the 2015 SIHH in a very promising year as Vacheron Constantin will also celebrate its 260th anniversary.